If the joint was so strong that things couldn't move it would no doubt crack.Īlso consider the fact that in all high stress joints on these boats there are many rivets doing the job, not just a few. I also figured that they intend for some movement at the rivet during expansion and contraction due to temperature change. I suppose this is for two reasons, first of is the fact that driving hard rivets would deform the soft aluminum hull, and second for the corrosion factor. Nearly every aluminum boat I've dealt with has used soft rivets from the factory. Since there are so many rivets and multiple joints, no single rivet is ever under any real load, if it is, there's already been a major structural failure that replacing a few rivets won't fix. I also called an engineer buddy who deals with marine structures at work, he said that he wouldn't consider a boat hull a structural load but more a static load when it comes to choosing a rivet. This would explain why rivet heads tend to corrode off with no surrounding damage. He also said that even a 1100F rivet was good for more than 200psi or shear strength and due to the number rivets on each joint, strength was not an issue. They would rather a rivet fail than a hull panel. I called one dealer who in turn had a factory rep call me and I was told that soft rivets were used for corrosion purposes. I drilled out all but two on each side, the remaining two just popped off when they were the only rivets left. The original rivets seem pretty soft, the few that were holding the remains of the cut up bench seat in the good boat came right out with little resistance. None of the rivets will be below the waterline. My biggest concern is appearance and making the final result look factory. I know that if I get the wrong alloy chances are good that there could be some dissimilar metal or corrosion issues, especially since these boats see saltwater. It hits far faster than a standard air hammer. The air hammer is a short through, high speed model that buzzes more than bangs on the rivet. I also thought you were supposed to buck rivets from the round end or the head? The rivet driving set I've got is an airframe repair kit, its got a dozen different drivers all with different shaped bits to fit the rivet head, and a half dozen anvils to get into tight spots. I'm thinking more like a 20lbs of rivets. I've got a few projects that need several hundred rivets. I have at least 30 old boats out back, just about all use the same style rivet, so I'm not thinking of a lot of 100 rivets, I need to buy these by the pound. I went online and most sites ask which alloy I want? 1100F or 2117T4? I've got some here marked 'Brazier head' but they have a small flat area in the middle of the head, they don't match the originals. The rivet heads are rounded and very low profile. Apparently the factory didn't worry about the reach, the amount of rivet showing on the inside on the original rivets all over these boats vary by as much as a 1/4". Get a shipping rate estimate by adding items to your online cart.The head diameter is 7/16" give or take a few thousandths, the shank is 3/16" but the reach varies. The quote takes into consideration, the bulk of your cart, where you want it delivered and if you want express or standard shipping. Shipping rates are automatically calculated based on live quotes supplied by our shipping partners. * These delivery times are an estimate and actual delivery times may vary based on peak periods and other external factors. Shipping day estimates after your order leaves our fulfilment centre in Sydney are based on Australia Post domestic delivery times: State Orders are normally shipped within 5 business days - most quicker! Safety Bags, Containers & Survival KitsĪll orders are shipped from our Brookvale, Sydney order fulfilment centre.Toilet Holding Tanks & Pumpout Fittings.Trailer Rollers, Brackets, Spindles & Skids.
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